If an award for strangest restaurant décor existed, Kimbo would be firmly in the running. This location clearly didn’t begin its commercial life as a Vietnamese restaurant. The massive dining room is decked out in a faux-Tudor style, with heavy wooden beams framing textured plaster walls, red carpeting, and huge wrought iron chandeliers that look like something Errol Flynn might have swung from while executing a swashbuckling escape. Overall the effect is of a mock-baronial castle, where cabbage rolls would look more at home on the table than salad rolls. Nonetheless, the menu is distinctly Vietnamese, specializing in bo 7 mon, or beef in 7 courses.

Crazy decor at Kimbo

Kimbo's Vermicelli with grilled beef and spring roll.

As there are only 2 of us dining tonight, we will skip the beef-stravaganza, in favor of simpler fare.  Perusing the list of vermicelli combos, and in a nod to the specialty of the house, I spend an inordinately longtime deliberating between the grilled beef and the sautéed beef combo. Ultimately I decide on #114, Grilled Beef with Spring Roll on Vermicelli, $7.95.

Once my decision is made, the meal arrives at the table with almost supernatural speed. As it turns out I needn’t have agonized so– the beef arrives bearing none of the traditional attributes of grilled meat, no searing or grill marks, just a uniform, rather tough texture and the overwhelming flavor of vinegary marinade. The spring roll is better. It is large and filled generously with bean thread noodles, black mushrooms, shredded carrot and minced pork. The rice paper wrapping is thick and chewy rather than crispy. The best aspect of the dish is the vermicelli itself, which is more al dente than usual, in a way that I enjoy, particularly when mixed with hearty curly lettuce and bean sprouts, then dressed with the syrupy, rather fishy nuoc cham and a little bit of chili sauce from the variety of sauces available on the table. My mood lifts further with the arrival of a very affordable bottle of Tsing Tao [$3.50]. Domestic brews are even more of a steal at $3.00 each.

Kimbo isn’t going to supplant any of my favorites for best vermicelli in West End T.O., but if you’re looking for a quick bite and a cold beer, you could do a lot worse.

Kimbo Restaurant
358 Bathurst st
416-603-7817
Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm
Friday & Saturday 11 am-11 pm