The corner of College and Dufferin is an unlikely location for a miniature Viet-town, yet a number of Vietnamese businesses and shops cluster together here in an otherwise distinctly Portuguese neighbourhood. No fewer than 3 Vietnamese restaurants co-exist on a single block.  Faced with such an array of options, how is one to decide? On road-trips my dad always picked a roadside diner based on the number of transport trucks parked out front (truckers being the experts on roadside cuisine), so following the same theory, I decide to try the resto with the largest number of Vietnamese customers inside. And the winner is: Pho Linh.

Simple but modern exterior of Pho Linh on College.

The busy resto is decorated in a simple, yet pleasantly modern style. The lighting is almost painfully bright. So far, so good.  But when the tea arrives, it tastes like little more than hot water. Oh well, no one chooses a Vietnamese restaurant for the tea. Moving on to the main attraction, I select #47– Vermicelli with Fried Chicken and Lemongrass [$7.00].

Vermicelli with Fried Chicken and Lemongrass

The noodles arrive remarkably quickly, and as was the case at the Canh Buom next door (see my earlier review), they are slightly thicker than average, more like spaghetti than vermicelli. On top of the noodles rests a generous serving of boneless, skinless chicken thigh, which has been crisply fried and garnished with mint, green onion, lettuce, bean sprouts and peanuts.  The texture of the meat is acceptable, slightly chewy, not at all fatty, however it evinces no noticeable notes of lemongrass or indeed of any spicing beyond salt. The flavor is pleasant, but plain. Even after dressing the dish with nuoc cham and herbs, I find myself spritzing it with lime in order to notch up the flavor profile.

Meanwhile, across the table my dining companion is busy adding chili and hoisin sauce to his pho, the broth of which he found to be quite flavorless on its own. The tea seems to have set the tone for the evening after all—not bad, but a bit bland.

All this being said, I’m not willing to write off Pho Linh just yet.  Given the large number of people eating there (and with other Viet options nearby) and the positive buzz this place gets online, I’m willing to wager that I just happened to stumble in on an off night.

Pho Linh
1156 College st.
416- 516-3891

lemongrass grilled pork

I started with a trip to my favorite organic store on the Danforth and picked up some pork chops. I recalled seeing fish sauce on the kitchen counter so I had one essential ingredient covered. The next most important ingredient: lemongrass. I love this plant. The resemblance is of green onion and sugar cane mating, they name her Lemongrass and smells of vanilla citrus. Interestingly enough, her other name is Citronella. Not only is she helpful in the kitchen she is also a great healer. Lemongrass calms our nerves and gently heals our insides, notably she is able to help detoxify the liver, pancreas, kidney, bladder and the digestive tract.

lemonion=lemongrass

I certainly enjoy her company in the kitchen especially when it involves the grill. I am now fully prepared. I chop up all the marinating ingredients: shallots, garlic, sugar, fish sauce, black pepper, green onion, and lemongrass, toss them with the pork chops and stick it in the refrigerator for tomorrow’s dinner. The next evening while the meat is on the grill, I prepare some carrots and white radish with some vinegar and sugar to serve as a quick side slaw over some greens. Finally, while the rice boils I make the fish dipping sauce by mincing some garlic and chillies and simmering it in some diluted fish sauce and about a tablespoon of sugar. Voila!
Dinner practically makes itself. While I plate everything up, the eggs fry in the pan and I call my mom and brother to the dinner table. My brother finishes his grilled pork chop and egg entre and exclaims, “That was refreshing!” Lemongrass becomes my new best friend.

grilling shrimp

lemongrass shrimp with vermicelli noodles

The next day, I do it again but this time, shrimp with vermicelli rice noodles and grill up some fresh Ontario zucchini.