Bun combo

Bun (vermicelli) combos are the perfect next step for someone learning about Vietnamese cuisine. The combos offer a chance to try a wide variety of different meats, rolls, and learn the joys of nuoc cham, all while still being anchored by friendly and familiar rice noodles. Having spent the last 7 blog entries exploring the bun on offer in Toronto’s west end restos, I’ve expanded my own horizons and hopefully encouraged others to do the same. Here are my picks for Best in the West:

1. Pho My Duyen [1208 Bloor st w]

More stylish than your average noodle house, yet an equal amount of care is lavished on exquisitely fresh ingredients. Many of the more unusual menu items illustrate the French colonial influence on Vietnamese cuisine. For the bun, try B19 Char-grilled Shrimps on Vermicelli.

2. Pho Phong [1603 Dundas w]

This out of the way spot still manages to lure in a diverse crowd with swanky décor, comfortable booths and consistently high quality food. I suggest #70 Dry Vermicelli with Spring roll, grilled pork and shrimp wrapped sugar cane.

3. Tie: Rua Vang [125 Ossington] and Pho tien Thanh [57 Ossington]

You won’t go wrong at either of these spots on Ossington. The cook at Pho tien Thanh used to work at Rua Vang, so it is hardly a surprise that they offer similar fare. Rua Vang (aka the Golden Turtle) is more well-known, which can mean waiting for a table during busy times, but the smaller, less crowded resto down the street is just a good, if not sometimes better.  At the Turtle, go for #93, Vermicelli with Grilled Chicken and Pineapple. Down at Pho tien Thanh, sample #58 Vermicelli with Meatball and Spring roll.

While there are many dishes that have yet to earn their ID plaque, one dish however, is hogging up all the names that are badly needed elsewhere.  I’m talking about the ambiguously labeled goi cuon.  Goi cuon is the chameleon of Vietnamese dishes, changing its name accordingly with the season… that’s in season.  Although the literal translation for goi cuon is salad (goi) roll (cuon), it is also known as fresh roll, spring roll, and summer roll.  And, if I’m not mistaken, some people call it winter roll and autumn roll, but there’s a good chance I am.

salad rolls

Underneath the rice paper is what looks to be a healthy group of ingredients that, when spotted together, could put a 15 minute session on the treadmill to shame.  The combination of peeled boiled shrimp, lettuce, herbs, vermicelli, cucumber, and possibly others, are consistent with the ingredients of most healthy salads.  This ’salad’ is placed on a sheet of rice paper and ‘rolled’ into a roll.  I think ’salad’ makes a very strong argument for being crowned the title.

Chinese spring rolls

So where did the name ’spring roll’ come from?  It is possible that people confused the salad roll for the Chinese spring roll, which is a crunchier, deep fried version of the salad roll.  Not to mention the ingredients and flavours are very different, too.  What about ’summer roll’ and ‘fresh roll’?  Again, there’s a strong possibility that these names were coined to associate the salad roll with freshness, as opposed to the deep fried spring roll. 

Although its English name is still debatable, one thing for sure, it isn’t the label that defines goi cuon as a refreshing, rolled up salad that can be enjoyed in all seasons…

P.S. Did you know that the Vietnamese have their own version of the deep fried spring roll, called Vietnamese spring roll?  More on that later.

Vietnamese flavours

Luckily for us, Vietnamese food is generally considered to be healthy since Vietnam’s geographical location yields lots of fresh tropical fruits and vegetables which have been incorporated into the diet. Also contributing is the fact that food is typically prepared and served either raw (rice paper salad/summer rolls Goi cuốn, papaya salads Goi du du, baguette sandwiches Bahn mi), grilled (marinated meats over rice/vermicelli Com tam/Bun) or in soup form (Pho), which require far less use of oils and fats. The exception is the deep fried spring roll Cha gio, which is a relatively modern interpretation of the more traditional summer rolls.

However, if one is new to Vietnamese cuisine and not familiar with some of the ingredients, it is more difficult to grasp the nutritional value of these meals in comparison, especially with nutrition and food regulations being different for imported foods. Therefore, upon looking over the menus for popular Vietnamese restaurant chains such as Ginger and Pho88, here are, in my opinion, the healthiest selections:

salad/summer roll

- salad/summer rolls Goi cuon – fresh shrimp, crab, chicken, herbs and vermicelli wrapped in rice paper rolls; be sure to try the low-fat fish extract sauce Nuoc cham in place of the fattening peanut sauce
- Pho noodle soup – a big bowl of thin rice noodles covered in a rich, clear meat broth and topped with various meats, scallion, bean sprouts, onion, coriander and sweet basil. I have had people argue that noodles are high in carbohydrates and therefore are not healthy, however a healthy diet should be approximately 50% carbohydrates (grains, noodles, sugars, sauces), 20% protein (meats, tofu, nuts) and 30% fat.
- vermicelli bowls, Bun – bowl of rice vermicelli topped with grilled marinated meat, fresh greens, beansprouts, mint, coriander, chopped peanuts, and pickled carrot, cucumber and daikon radish
- papaya/mango salad Goi du du – thinly sliced fresh papaya or mango with pickled carrot, cucumber, daikon radish, mint, onion and occasionally meat
- fresh fruit juices/smoothies – made with exotic fruits including mango, avocado, pineapple, dragonfruit, durian, and jackfruit; opt for juices as smoothies often have condensed milk or other fattening dairy added

papaya salad

Keep in mind, these are just recommendations, and that my motto for healthy eating is ‘everything in moderation’ : if you go for the deep fried spring rolls, then choose a healthier entrée.

Photo Credit: Tony Ngo,Thanh Tran, C. P.